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 just to brag

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kristina89
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PostSubject: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:17 pm

So the last two times i fed my bp i had to take him in and force feed him well yesterday he finally killed they pinkie on his own and ate it =)
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smd58
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:36 pm

That's great, have you checked your temps and other thing for reasons why it wouldn't eat.
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kristina89
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:39 pm

he is still young, i have had him for a month as of the 29 of this month he has only ate three times for me well the first two i took him in and the force fed him. This time i took him out and put him in a rubber tub and closed it and set it in my room and he ate. I was told by the place i got him its normal because he wasnt taught to do it himself or something like this, he is my first bp.
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kristina89
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 7:40 pm

the temp on one side is 80 and the humidity is between 50 & 60 and from what i have read thats where its should be
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smd58
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 8:25 pm

Look at the top part of this form page Clarence wrote a good care sheet. It will tell you how to keep your pet.
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kristina89
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 8:40 pm

i have read it plus many others. i did my research before i brought him home. thanks though
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Cp3_Pythons
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 9:56 pm

smd58 wrote:
Look at the top part of this form page Clarence wrote a good care sheet. It will tell you how to keep your pet.


Thanks Steve... however that care sheet is from NERD.
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Don
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:15 pm

If your warm side is 80, that could be why he didn't eat. I'd raise that at least five degrees. Forced feeding should be used as a last resort by experienced keepers. Assist feedeng should be attempted first, but only after the snake starts to lose weight.
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smd58
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:50 pm

Cp3_Pythons wrote:
smd58 wrote:
Look at the top part of this form page Clarence wrote a good care sheet. It will tell you how to keep your pet.


Thanks Steve... however that care sheet is from NERD.

Opps Facepalm
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Cp3_Pythons
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:32 pm

No reason to Facepalm ... I did give it to Nick and asked NERD's permission before using it...
I have the same care sheet's on my website as well... I figured why re-write a caresheet when well there all about the same just worded differently lol
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Bobbykaizer
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 12:58 am

thats great news, i had a female het caramel albino who would only eat thawed if you put it in her tub over night.. the other day she actually struck!!! i think im gonna try live mice even though shes 1900-2000 grams because sometimes they are finicky when it comes to larger live rats
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kristina89
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 12:58 pm

Don wrote:
If your warm side is 80, that could be why he didn't eat. I'd raise that at least five degrees. Forced feeding should be used as a last resort by experienced keepers. Assist feedeng should be attempted first, but only after the snake starts to lose weight.
I didnt force feed him myself i took him in to the place i got him and they did it. They also told me not to feed him in his tank to put him and a different container and feed him in that each time.
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kristina89
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:08 pm

Don wrote:
If your warm side is 80, that could be why he didn't eat. I'd raise that at least five degrees. Forced feeding should be used as a last resort by experienced keepers. Assist feedeng should be attempted first, but only after the snake starts to lose weight.
how would i get it warmer? i have a heating pad and a lamp on one side, what are other ways to get it warmer?
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Focal
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:45 pm

kristina89 wrote:
They also told me not to feed him in his tank to put him and a different container and feed him in that each time.

I've never been for or against this practice, but I will say from experience, it's best to not do this with hatchlings. Developing a ball pythons feeding response can be inhibited by disturbances before feeding. Try feeding him in his own enclosure, undisturbed, until he is a regular eater. I do this with all my hatchlings and the biggest thing I have learned, is to not let them know that a human is around when they are trying to learn to eat. Just a tip Smile

To further elaborate, since it's Friday, what I do, is open the container very slowly and quietly when I go to feed. I'll wait until they are in their hide or curled up and not exploring. I'll take my tongs and grab the rodent and try inserting it into the enclosure without being seen. I do not put the rodent near the snake at all, but within eye sight. I'll jiggle and hop the rodent around until the snake notices and develops an interest. An interested feeder will start to lift its head and almost twitch a little. This is a good sign. I'll get the snake worked up and then start slowly moving the rodent towards him. If all is going well, they will strike and coil the moment it hits their nose.
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kristina89
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:53 pm

Focal wrote:
kristina89 wrote:
They also told me not to feed him in his tank to put him and a different container and feed him in that each time.

I've never been for or against this practice, but I will say from experience, it's best to not do this with hatchlings. Developing a ball pythons feeding response can be inhibited by disturbances before feeding. Try feeding him in his own enclosure, undisturbed, until he is a regular eater. I do this with all my hatchlings and the biggest thing I have learned, is to not let them know that a human is around when they are trying to learn to eat. Just a tip Smile

To further elaborate, since it's Friday, what I do, is open the container very slowly and quietly when I go to feed. I'll wait until they are in their hide or curled up and not exploring. I'll take my tongs and grab the rodent and try inserting it into the enclosure without being seen. I do not put the rodent near the snake at all, but within eye sight. I'll jiggle and hop the rodent around until the snake notices and develops an interest. An interested feeder will start to lift its head and almost twitch a little. This is a good sign. I'll get the snake worked up and then start slowly moving the rodent towards him. If all is going well, they will strike and coil the moment it hits their nose.
i was told not to feed him in his tank because he might start associating me opening his tank to feeding and may strike. I dont know how true this is he is my first bp. I have had him a month now.
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Focal
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:58 pm

I would vote 'not true.' I feed all my snakes in their enclosures for years now and have never been bit from a feeding response, however, this could very well hold true with other species.

I was bit from a feeding response for the first time in my life last night. This was with a different species than a ball python, but I have not fed this guy in his cage yet.
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kristina89
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:02 pm

like i said im not sure im kinda going off word of mouth. He is very friendly and loves being held he isnt head shy at all. He is pretty active even during the day. Im not sure how old he is though like i said i have had him for a month and he is maybe a little over a foot long.
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Don
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:07 pm

kristina89 wrote:
Don wrote:
If your warm side is 80, that could be why he didn't eat. I'd raise that at least five degrees. Forced feeding should be used as a last resort by experienced keepers. Assist feedeng should be attempted first, but only after the snake starts to lose weight.
how would i get it warmer? i have a heating pad and a lamp on one side, what are other ways to get it warmer?

First, there are very few pet stores where I would trust them to properly assist or force feed. I assume it was a pet store because you said "place" rather than person. Most pet stores know very little about reptiles. I hope they did not injure the snake or stress him out even more. Second, I echo Nick's (Focal) advice.

Third, to answer the above quote, if you use a UTH (Under The Tank) heater combined with a thermostat you should be able to get the warm side up to above 85. Many people keep it at 90. My ball pythons all have a warm side of a tub that is around 87-88 degrees. Ball pythons, once fed will usually retreat to their warm spot and digest their food. If your warm spot has been 80, that may be why the feeding response has slowed down. Good luck and that care sheet is a good read. NERD gave Clarence permission to post it and NERD is known as one of the biggest breeders in the US.

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kristina89
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:13 pm

It was a reptile store here in hampton i got him from. after he ate he maybe laid in his warm side then was back to being active later that day.
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acl2790
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 3:44 pm

Focal wrote:
I would vote 'not true.' I feed all my snakes in their enclosures for years now and have never been bit from a feeding response, however, this could very well hold true with other species.

Completely agree with Nick on this one, and Don makes a great point about pet store advice (generally not worth taking).

Check out this FAQ from Pro Exotics, it has helped me immensely with numerous issues:

http://www.proexotics.com/FAQ.html

Pro Exotics has this to say about feeding in a separate container:

There are some pieces of "advice" that continually float around, and never go away. They are constantly recycled, often regurgitated without actual thought to new keepers struggling to separate good advice from bad.
There is no sensible or logical reason to feed your reptile in a separate container. The most common reasoning is that it "trains" the animal not to bite when you go in the cage.

There are two basic reasons your animal strikes when you go in the cage. Most likely it is a defensive strike, as you have startled the animal (perhaps woken it up), and it is defending itself. Learn how to approach your animal better, don't grab it by the head, or from in front of the nose. "Wake it up" before snatching it out.

The other common strike is due to the fact that you SMELL LIKE FOOD. Don't wear "rat cologne" and don't feed by hand. Use a hemostat for goodness sakes! Again, this is not the fault of the animal, this is due to the ignorance of the keeper, and it is easily remedied.

Feeding in a separate container does not "train" the animal to be tamer when you go in the cage (you still "go in the cage" to inititiate feeding). And in itself it does not prevent impactions of particulate substrates like soil or mulch.

cite: http://www.proexotics.com/FAQ2.html#snakes_feedingtub




Last edited by acl2790 on Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kristina89
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PostSubject: Re: just to brag    Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:07 pm

acl2790 wrote:
Focal wrote:
I would vote 'not true.' I feed all my snakes in their enclosures for years now and have never been bit from a feeding response, however, this could very well hold true with other species.

Completely agree with Nick on this one, and Don makes a great point about pet store advice (generallly not worth taking).

Check out this FAQ from Pro Exotics, it has helped me immensely with numerous issues:

http://www.proexotics.com/FAQ.html

Pro Exotics has this to say about feeding in a seperate container:

There are some pieces of "advice" that continually float around, and never go away. They are constantly recycled, often regurgitated without actual thought to new keepers struggling to separate good advice from bad.
There is no sensible or logical reason to feed your reptile in a separate container. The most common reasoning is that it "trains" the animal not to bite when you go in the cage.

There are two basic reasons your animal strikes when you go in the cage. Most likely it is a defensive strike, as you have startled the animal (perhaps woken it up), and it is defending itself. Learn how to approach your animal better, don't grab it by the head, or from in front of the nose. "Wake it up" before snatching it out. thanks!

The other common strike is due to the fact that you SMELL LIKE FOOD. Don't wear "rat cologne" and don't feed by hand. Use a hemostat for goodness sakes! Again, this is not the fault of the animal, this is due to the ignorance of the keeper, and it is easily remedied.

Feeding in a separate container does not "train" the animal to be tamer when you go in the cage (you still "go in the cage" to inititiate feeding). And in itself it does not prevent impactions of particulate substrates like soil or mulch.

cite: http://www.proexotics.com/FAQ2.html#snakes_feedingtub


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